The sense of place is fundamental in literature. It is fundamental in the literature that lasts inside us. Think about the books you remember vividly years later and I bet that place was strongly developed.Place is not something that can be established simply, in a single sentence. It comes through colors, smells, the way the ground feels, or the streets and the people. In Hemingway’s For Whom The Bell Tolls, the country was brown. There were soft hills with tall pines. Who can forget the feel of the pine needles against your skin when lying on the ground? That’s not just from the last scene, the one where the injured Robert Jordan stays behind, waiting for the enemy. The place, the characteristics that make it unique, are repeated throughout the novel. It’s curious to me that when novels are discussed in school the subject of place is rarely one that is examined in its own right.
Some writers claim a location as their own until it is hard to imagine it belonging to anyone else. London is that way for me. As far as I’m concerned, contemporary London belongs to Martin Amis. I couldn’t help thinking about Amis when I was there over Christmas. It wasn’t that I was reading any of his books. (I was actually reading a lot of Roth back then — different country, different time.) But I couldn’t get away from the thought that the London I walked each day had a twin sister in his words. I suspect that the same thing would happen to me if I went to Istanbul. I would look for the narrow, angled streets that Orhan Pamuk walked as a young man. The atmosphere of incompleteness, hollow yearning, which is what I remember best from The Black Book would come back, even if it’s been ten years since I read it.
Some cities no longer exist. To find the Dublin of James Joyce you have only one place to look. Dublin itself has become another place entirely. Joyce and even Bloomsday are still celebrated there, but the city is firmly part of the new century. The same is partly true of the Buenos Aires created by Jorge Luis Borges. It is gone. To recover it, you have to page through his stories, try to recreate the light, the fervor of Buenos Aires in the 1930s. Unlike Dublin, the city itself has succumbed to decades of inebriated politics that made one of the seven richest countries in the world into an economic basket case and the subject for opera buffa.
There are pictures too. An exhibit currently showing in Madrid gathers the photographs of Argentine photographer Horacio Coppola (1906 — ), who was a friend of Borges and who took walks through the city. Each claimed 1930s Buenos Aires for himself. What survives of that city, that time, is thanks to them and to the tangos sung by Gardel.
The Portuguese language blog, O que cae dos dias has a lyrical post on the place of writers and cities that I wish I could translate in full here. I can’t do that, but I will give you a paragraph –
Numa noite chuvosa de 1936, o fotógrafo Horacio Coppola e o escritor Jorge Luis Borges faziam um de seus habituais passeios pelas ruas de Buenos Aires. Coppola parou diante de uma poça. Ajustou a câmera e disparou. No espelho de água, estava refletida a silhueta de uma casa do bairro de Palermo. Quando viu revelada a foto do amigo, Borges exclamou: «Isso é Buenos Aires». A mesma cidade que encontro agora reflectida na exposição do fotógrafo argentino, em Madrid. Uma metrópole fervilhante. Gente elegante cruzando amplas avenidas da moda, descendo e subindo de eléctricos ou parada à porta dos teatros ou apenas entrevista através das vitrinas dos cafés. E, ainda, subúrbios desertos, esquinas silenciosas, barcos ancorados na Boca.
* * *
On a rainy night in 1936, photographer Horacio Coppola and writer Jorge Luis Borges went out on one of their regular walks through the streets of Buenos Aires. Coppola stopped at a puddle, focussed, and shot. The water reflected a house in the neighborhood of Palermo. When Borges saw the picture after it was developed, he exclaimed, “That’s Buenos Aires.” It is the same city that I find mirrored in the exhibit in Madrid of the Argentine photographer [Coppola] – a city with fervor, with elegant people walking across the broad and fashionable avenues, climbing onto or descending off trams, waiting at the theater entrance, seen through cafe windows, of deserted suburbs, silent corners, and ships anchored at Boca.
João Ventura, “Buenos Aires pelos passos de Borges,” O que cae dos dias (May 5, 2008)[translation to English mine]
Pictures of the Coppola exhibit in Madrid are no longer available on the Internet, but you can also look here for pictures from another exhibit of Coppola’s work, this time from a museum in Buenos Aires.
Robert Wright, a travel photographer in Buenos Aires and author of the blog, Line of Sight, has a post comparing Buenos Aires in the 1930s and now. Here is Coppola’s 1936 picture of the obelisk –

Here is Wright’s more contemporary view –

It is the same location, but it is not the same place. And yes, if you do the math, you will figure out that Coppola is 102 this year.
Photos: Horacio Coppola, Obelisco, 1936 and Robert Wright, line of sight blog (Aug. 11, 2006); Source: João Ventura, “Buenos Aires pelos passos de Borges,” O que cae dos dias blog (May 5, 2008)